Design Level: Over 9000
There are so many variations of great patterns out there and there is very little originality left in fly tying. I’m not saying that’s a bad thing, its a great indicator of the growth of our sport and industry and we can only benefit from this “problem.” I say this to make it clear that this pattern is a variation of yet another great fly, an amazing fly at that. This pattern derives from Kelly Galloup’s “Sex Dungeon” streamer. I absolutely love this fly, but it’s missing a something that I wanted on particular day, which is weight, lots of it. I needed a heavier fly and I like to add some bunny to my streamers for a little more undulation. Its easy to tie and works like gangbusters anywhere big hungry fish live. It also doesn’t require anything complicated and spins up pretty quickly. I hope you enjoy it.
Hooks: Daiichi 2220 #4
Thread: UTC Ultra Thread 140 – Black
Tails: Strung Marabou
Rear Hackle : Saddle Hackle – Black
Hinge: PowerPro 20lb Braid
Hinge Pin: Craft Store Glass Beads – Red
Front Body: Whitlock’s SLF Dubbing – Dark Stone Nymph
Front Underbody: .030 Lead Wire
Front Body: Crosscut FROSTIP Rabbit Strips – Black/Orange Frostip
Legs: Sili Legs – Chrome, Copper/Black
Head: Flymen Fishing Company Sculpin Helmet – Large Brown
"The Dungeon is a monster fish producer. It haseverything going on, and brings out the the worst inbig trout." - Kelly Galloup
STEP 1: Add the included eyes to the Sculpin Helmets and place a drop of epoxy over each eye. This holds the eyes down well and doesn’t dry up as that white residue, the eyes stay nice and clear without ever falling off.
STEP 2: Start your thread wraps on the rear hook and tie in a marabou tail that wraps around the entire hook shank so that the whole shank is covered. Trim off the excess and make sure it’s tied tightly.
STEP 3: Double over a rubber leg and tie it in on the near side, firmly and directly in front of the marabou. Trim it to length just longer than the tail and repeat that process on the far side of the fly.
STEP 4: Tie in a long black saddle hackle by the tip at the same tie in point as the legs. Once that is done dub a thin body the length of the shank.
STEP 5: Start palmering the hackle forward making sure your wraps are even and spaced well enough that they create a nice buggy body that will give plenty of movement to the fly. The spacing is up to you but I like mine about 1/8 of an inch apart. When you reach the front tie in a half strand of rubber leg on each side, whip finish the head and add a drop of glue.
STEP 6: Take a six inch piece of braid and make a loop connection with the hook you just tied on. Once done and tight, slide on two red beads and tie that braid to another hook so that there is just a little bit of daylight between the beads and the bend of the new hook. Tie down the braid tightly about a quarter of an inch forward, than double the braid backwards and wrap your thread back toward the bend to make sure the braid is held down tight. Trim off the excess braid and add a drop of glue.
STEP 7: Tie in a small clump of marabou the same as before, long enough to barely cover the hinge we just created. Trim off the excess, clean up the thread and tie in another set of rubber legs, one single half strand on each side.
STEP 8: Just forward of your last wraps tie in a piece of lead wire about three inches long and wrap it forward tightly, with the size of the wire and the bulk we’ve created so far it will be hard to make it neat but its not necessary as it will be well hidden. Don’t wrap it too far forward that it will create too much bulb near the front, to avoid this double it over itself. Once done, add a few securing wraps to the wire and add a little bit of glue between the wraps to hold it down tight and avoid it from slipping.
STEP 9: Bring your thread back to the marabou and legs we tied in and tie in a length of crosscut honker. Start wrapping it forward tightly all the way to the front and tie it in, trim off the excess, clean up the head and tie in a double half strand of rubber leg on each side. Whip finish to complete
STEP 10: To finish the fly, add glue to the head of the fly and slide the Sculpin Helmet over the eye and press tightly up against the material. Make sure its level, tilt your vice so the head is pointing skyward and add a drop of glue through the eye opening to make sure the glue gets down inside the Sculpin Helmet and secures it to the hook and material. Build up a small thread dam to secure the head from being able to move forward and If you would like you can add a small amount of epoxy to the gap around the eye. Viola!